Söndag 11 Oktober 2009 - New York
Resealbum: NYC revisited
When I moved to New York in the late 80's, one of the first things I had to do was to get a telephone line. I headed up to what was the New York Telephone buildning on East 13th street. The lines were long and gray and oh, so slow. When you have to spend the better part of the day standing in a line like that, you either languish on your own, or try to make some friends. Are you nice enough, the person in front of you will save your spot when you make a deli- or bathroom run, or even better, invite you to share their packed lunch. Behind me was a couple that spoke no english, but in front of me there was this russian family with a son that spoke some english. We immediately struck up conversation and at the end of the day we had swopped our first phone numbers. A few days later I get a phone call from my new found friends. I am invited to their house for dinner - would I come? I am a sucker for everything foreign and have never met any russians earlier. I immediately accept the invitation.
A few days later I am greeted by the son as I arrive to what must have been Brighton Beach or Sheepshead Bay subway station. We walk to the apartment in an adjacent complex where we meet the rest of the family. As we enter the building I am overcome by all sorts of wonderful smells of boiling pots, and immediately feel at home. I have yet to learn how to cook and I appreciate every time I eat a real homecooked meal. This proves to be a real treat. I remember sitting around the table, plastic covered chairs, pink table cloth, the mother with her big russian bleach blond hairdo and me gulping down my very first real bortsch. I don't remember the conversation much, but although it definitely was a struggle we had lots of laughs and it was a wonderful evening.
Since then, I've made many russian friends and had many more wonderful russian eating experinces. I so wished to re-visit this part of the city, so of course we had to come down to what is called Odessa by the sea.
Being a sunday, the boardwalk was packed with people. The older generation occupying the seats facing the wonderful stretch of sandy beach, women with stern faces and hats and men playing chess. Now, eating out in one of the restaurants along the boardwalk is not a budget travellers option so we continued along the boardwalk all the way to Coney Island and instead had the must have frank at Nathans. These days I make a killer bortsch myself.
A few days later I am greeted by the son as I arrive to what must have been Brighton Beach or Sheepshead Bay subway station. We walk to the apartment in an adjacent complex where we meet the rest of the family. As we enter the building I am overcome by all sorts of wonderful smells of boiling pots, and immediately feel at home. I have yet to learn how to cook and I appreciate every time I eat a real homecooked meal. This proves to be a real treat. I remember sitting around the table, plastic covered chairs, pink table cloth, the mother with her big russian bleach blond hairdo and me gulping down my very first real bortsch. I don't remember the conversation much, but although it definitely was a struggle we had lots of laughs and it was a wonderful evening.
Since then, I've made many russian friends and had many more wonderful russian eating experinces. I so wished to re-visit this part of the city, so of course we had to come down to what is called Odessa by the sea.
Being a sunday, the boardwalk was packed with people. The older generation occupying the seats facing the wonderful stretch of sandy beach, women with stern faces and hats and men playing chess. Now, eating out in one of the restaurants along the boardwalk is not a budget travellers option so we continued along the boardwalk all the way to Coney Island and instead had the must have frank at Nathans. These days I make a killer bortsch myself.
Lördag 10 Oktober 2009 - New York
Resealbum: NYC revisited
Eric Ferrara is the great, great guy that besides authoring the book "A Guide to Gangsters, Murderers and Weirdos of New York City's Lower East Side" (http://gmwbook.com) also is the founder of the Lower East Side History Project as well as one of its' extraordinarily engaging guides.
The Lower East Side History Project is a non-profit organization with a dedicated mission to research about, document and preserve the all to fast disappearing history of the greater Lower East Side. Besides an exellent historical database accessible through their website, they offer walking tours in the area. The professional and NYC licensed guides are dedicated community members, authors, educators and historians - all native or veteran New Yorkers.
The guides are specialists in each of their areas, and let me tell you - I have never listened with bigger ears. I knew that Allen Ginsberg lived around the corner from my apartment, but Bugsy Siegel, Al Capone, Lucky Luciano and John Gotti? Places I had passed by a hundred times that had been headquarters for all kinds of sordid events, and the original adress for the Black Hand in Little Italy is the place where I now can go shopping for a handbag. These tours are real gems!
I had really dreaded going back to East Village, so much is changed and it now mostly feels like a large college frat party, instead of the alternative artist- and activist place it once was. Or maybe I should have said had become? From a historic point of view I learn that this change is just part of the cycle, as this area has always been under constant change, and trying to freeze time will just make for a dead place. But still - some of the history HAS to be preserved as we otherwise will forget. We need to know where we come from in order to know who we are and where we are going, isn't that so? A 20 year old russian immigrant Clara Lemlich speaking at Cooper Union made 20.000 women garment workers go on strike, an event that gave womens suffrage and workers rights a momentum forward. Historical events forming the world I live in have happened on my very doorstep. I should know this. I am a woman and a worker. Going back became more of an empowerment than a silly trip down memory lane. I am happy I came back. Using the Village as a measuring tool I can also see I have grown. I have changed. Thank God!
Lower East Side History Project website
http://www.leshp.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=1
The Lower East Side History Project is a non-profit organization with a dedicated mission to research about, document and preserve the all to fast disappearing history of the greater Lower East Side. Besides an exellent historical database accessible through their website, they offer walking tours in the area. The professional and NYC licensed guides are dedicated community members, authors, educators and historians - all native or veteran New Yorkers.
The guides are specialists in each of their areas, and let me tell you - I have never listened with bigger ears. I knew that Allen Ginsberg lived around the corner from my apartment, but Bugsy Siegel, Al Capone, Lucky Luciano and John Gotti? Places I had passed by a hundred times that had been headquarters for all kinds of sordid events, and the original adress for the Black Hand in Little Italy is the place where I now can go shopping for a handbag. These tours are real gems!
I had really dreaded going back to East Village, so much is changed and it now mostly feels like a large college frat party, instead of the alternative artist- and activist place it once was. Or maybe I should have said had become? From a historic point of view I learn that this change is just part of the cycle, as this area has always been under constant change, and trying to freeze time will just make for a dead place. But still - some of the history HAS to be preserved as we otherwise will forget. We need to know where we come from in order to know who we are and where we are going, isn't that so? A 20 year old russian immigrant Clara Lemlich speaking at Cooper Union made 20.000 women garment workers go on strike, an event that gave womens suffrage and workers rights a momentum forward. Historical events forming the world I live in have happened on my very doorstep. I should know this. I am a woman and a worker. Going back became more of an empowerment than a silly trip down memory lane. I am happy I came back. Using the Village as a measuring tool I can also see I have grown. I have changed. Thank God!
Lower East Side History Project website
http://www.leshp.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=1
Fredag 9 Oktober 2009 - New York
Resealbum: NYC revisited
BL 20 september 12:28
My birthday is coming up and I would like to celebrate it with you guys! Would like to meet up for dinner and/or drinks on saturday. What do you say? Big hugz!
E 23 september 03:18
¡¡¡¡¡FELICIDADES!!!!! But of course, what an honor. I'll get the restaurant list going to give you guys something interesting to choose from. Love you!
BL 23 september 09:43
Dearest E - what an eccelllent idea! I cannot say how much I have missed you guys! this will truly be a night to remember.
E 29 september 05:37
Ok. J and I have some ideas where to go but it's ultimately up to you dear, if you don't see anything on this list we'll keep on looking. Tons of options, we've been to some and want to try the others.
HIGH END
Babbo (always amazing food and wine, I love this NY classic!) http://www.babbonyc.com
Budakan (trendy, never been) http://www.buddakannyc.com
Perry Street (very nice, quiet but hip, lovely food) http://www.jean-georges.com/
Il Mulino (never been, sounds good). http://www.ilmulino.com/
MEDIUM END
Balthazar (always great) http://www.balthazarny.com
The EU (gastro pub scene). http://www.theeunyc.com/
SMALL. BUT GREAT
Prune (awesome food) http://www.prunerestaurant.com/
John Dory (the latest, sooo want to go) http://thejohndory.com/
The recipe and Little Owl (hipsterland) http://thelittleowlnyc.com/
NO RESERVATION BUT WORTH THE 1.5 HOUR WAIT!
Blue Ribbon Sushi (famous amongst famous celebs, I love it) http://www.blueribbonrestaurants.com/rests_sushi_man_main.htm
Spotted Pig (same people as John Dory, one of my all time favorites) http://www.thespottedpig.com/
Momofuku (I never been to a David Chang resto, this might be the time) http://www.momofuku.com/
Then you have all the famous joints, but maybe those are just for the two of you.
Let me know we need to make reservations asap.
Un beso enorme, E
BL 29 september 11:30
Whoaaaaaah! Amazing! I had a quick look on some of the menues and I REALLY need to go through all of then tonight. And God - I'm hungry - and I already had breakfast!
BL 3 october 15:38
Yes! We have decided for BALTHAZAR! Should we say around 8-ish? Can you take care of the reservations? I will try to call C since I haven't heard from her yet... maybe you can talk to her? Besos!
BL (to other recipient) 11 october 14:21
The place was GREEEEEEEEEEEEAT. One of top ten eats in my life. Seriously. Have to go back.
My birthday is coming up and I would like to celebrate it with you guys! Would like to meet up for dinner and/or drinks on saturday. What do you say? Big hugz!
E 23 september 03:18
¡¡¡¡¡FELICIDADES!!!!! But of course, what an honor. I'll get the restaurant list going to give you guys something interesting to choose from. Love you!
BL 23 september 09:43
Dearest E - what an eccelllent idea! I cannot say how much I have missed you guys! this will truly be a night to remember.
E 29 september 05:37
Ok. J and I have some ideas where to go but it's ultimately up to you dear, if you don't see anything on this list we'll keep on looking. Tons of options, we've been to some and want to try the others.
HIGH END
Babbo (always amazing food and wine, I love this NY classic!) http://www.babbonyc.com
Budakan (trendy, never been) http://www.buddakannyc.com
Perry Street (very nice, quiet but hip, lovely food) http://www.jean-georges.com/
Il Mulino (never been, sounds good). http://www.ilmulino.com/
MEDIUM END
Balthazar (always great) http://www.balthazarny.com
The EU (gastro pub scene). http://www.theeunyc.com/
SMALL. BUT GREAT
Prune (awesome food) http://www.prunerestaurant.com/
John Dory (the latest, sooo want to go) http://thejohndory.com/
The recipe and Little Owl (hipsterland) http://thelittleowlnyc.com/
NO RESERVATION BUT WORTH THE 1.5 HOUR WAIT!
Blue Ribbon Sushi (famous amongst famous celebs, I love it) http://www.blueribbonrestaurants.com/rests_sushi_man_main.htm
Spotted Pig (same people as John Dory, one of my all time favorites) http://www.thespottedpig.com/
Momofuku (I never been to a David Chang resto, this might be the time) http://www.momofuku.com/
Then you have all the famous joints, but maybe those are just for the two of you.
Let me know we need to make reservations asap.
Un beso enorme, E
BL 29 september 11:30
Whoaaaaaah! Amazing! I had a quick look on some of the menues and I REALLY need to go through all of then tonight. And God - I'm hungry - and I already had breakfast!
BL 3 october 15:38
Yes! We have decided for BALTHAZAR! Should we say around 8-ish? Can you take care of the reservations? I will try to call C since I haven't heard from her yet... maybe you can talk to her? Besos!
BL (to other recipient) 11 october 14:21
The place was GREEEEEEEEEEEEAT. One of top ten eats in my life. Seriously. Have to go back.
Torsdag 8 Oktober 2009 - New York
Resealbum: NYC revisited
Aforementioned husband being a first time visitor to the city and not seeing the Green Lady might be just a tad too much, so I resigned to the fact that we at least had to squeeze on the Staten Island Ferry for a quick passing by. The Whitehall Ferry Terminal looks decidedly sharp after the rebuild in 2005, as does the South Ferry subway stop with those beautiful three dimensional glass tree walls created by two Brooklyn artist brothers.
The ferry is still free and as usual full of tourists fighting for a spot by the railings for that obligatory photo moment. I was looking for a long lost friend for a better view, but apparently he had the day off. Once he actually let me drive the ferry, but I guess those good old days are long gone. Today it´s all about safety says Mike and laughs, a ferry employee for the past 24 years. He promises to tell my old neighbour that I said hello, and off we skip to the mainland.
The ferry is still free and as usual full of tourists fighting for a spot by the railings for that obligatory photo moment. I was looking for a long lost friend for a better view, but apparently he had the day off. Once he actually let me drive the ferry, but I guess those good old days are long gone. Today it´s all about safety says Mike and laughs, a ferry employee for the past 24 years. He promises to tell my old neighbour that I said hello, and off we skip to the mainland.
Torsdag 8 Oktober 2009 - New York
Resealbum: NYC revisited
Showing hubby around in the big apple for the first time seemed like an ok idea at first, but having lived in NYC for most of the 90's I so did not want to follow the obvious tourist trail. As a result of the heavy gentrification programme on the LES with subsequent higher cost of living, many of our friends have left Manhattan for the greener pastures of Queens and Brooklyn. Now, back in the late 80's and early 90's those areas were definitely not my hangout of choice, so it was with some trepidation I ventured on the 7 to Sunnyside, Queens.
I could not have been more wrong. Getting off at 46 Street and Bliss I realized that a) Manhattan definitely looks better from a distance b) prices are so much lower and c) I can practice my spanish without feeling ashamed, as the guy selling flowers did not understand much english anyway. Both of us decidedly relieved, I walked away with a beautiful bouquet of roses for half the price of what I would have paid just 20 minutes ago in midtown Manthattan.
I could not have been more wrong. Getting off at 46 Street and Bliss I realized that a) Manhattan definitely looks better from a distance b) prices are so much lower and c) I can practice my spanish without feeling ashamed, as the guy selling flowers did not understand much english anyway. Both of us decidedly relieved, I walked away with a beautiful bouquet of roses for half the price of what I would have paid just 20 minutes ago in midtown Manthattan.
Onsdag 7 Oktober 2009 - Gothenburg-Landvetter Airport
Resealbum: NYC revisited
DEFINITIVT INTE
Times Square
Statue of Liberty
Ellis Island
United Nations HQ
Ground Zero
Fifth ave
SoHo
Macys
Shopping
ANTAGLIGEN INTE
Guggenheim
TYVÄRR INTE
The Met
Moma
Fire Island
DEFINITIVT
Queens
Brighton Beach
SpaHa
Grand Central
East Village
Lower East Side
Central Park
AMNH
TROLIGTVIS
Williamsburg
Madison Sq Garden
EVENTUELLT
Staten Island Ferry
Empire State building
Little Italy
Chinatown
Yes! Planeringen är klar! Med den här listan i bakfickan återstår att se vad vi hittar på. Som med de flesta planeringar riskerar den givetvis att bli något helt annat, men vad gör det? Huvudsaken är att vi planerat. Nu kan vi slänga alla planer åt skogen och bara njuta av alla överraskningar. För det är väl därför man reser?
Times Square
Statue of Liberty
Ellis Island
United Nations HQ
Ground Zero
Fifth ave
SoHo
Macys
Shopping
ANTAGLIGEN INTE
Guggenheim
TYVÄRR INTE
The Met
Moma
Fire Island
DEFINITIVT
Queens
Brighton Beach
SpaHa
Grand Central
East Village
Lower East Side
Central Park
AMNH
TROLIGTVIS
Williamsburg
Madison Sq Garden
EVENTUELLT
Staten Island Ferry
Empire State building
Little Italy
Chinatown
Yes! Planeringen är klar! Med den här listan i bakfickan återstår att se vad vi hittar på. Som med de flesta planeringar riskerar den givetvis att bli något helt annat, men vad gör det? Huvudsaken är att vi planerat. Nu kan vi slänga alla planer åt skogen och bara njuta av alla överraskningar. För det är väl därför man reser?